One of the resources that I keep on coming back to in my fitting journeys is Harriet Pepin’s Modern Pattern Design, circa 1942 (available online through the Vintage Sewing Reference Library). There’s a lot of talk on boards and in contemporary fitting books about moving and rotating darts. Pepin refers to this issue as where control is as a garment, which I find clearer lexically. Control can be provided by darts, seaming, yokes, etc., depending on the garment and the look. For example, the control provided by a regular bust dart can be replaced by a princess seam, which gives the same control.

For me, this has caused a mental shift. The base scenario, the ur-garment (if you will, which you shouldn’t, probably) is not a flat sheet – it’s a fitted sloper/fitting shell. Any changes to that are made by shifting the control to different elements or leaving the control unsewn as ease. I don’t know how much of this theory has made it into my garments yet, but for me the most satisfying part of new projects is figuring them out in my head.

On another control/lack of note, my goal of stash parity was dealt a blow from my visit to Hancock’s this weekend. There’s no Hancock’s near me, so when I get to the East or South Bay I try to visit. They had tons of fabrics on sale – so much so that when the cutting table lady thought I’d bought a $6.99/yd fabric, she felt the need to alert me (it was actually on 60% off sale). Most of them are intended for quilts or bags, but I did the rest of a bolt of printed seersucker for PJ pants, the same as the printed seersucker I made into capris and reviewed on PR a bit ago, except in a navy rather than green colorway. I also got some dark navy shirting which will be a good lining or wearable muslin fabric.


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