I’ve been working on flat-measuring, altering and muslin-ing the basic knit top, skirt and pants in my SWAP wardrobe pattern, New Look 6735. I’m not totally satisfied with the sleeves/armscye on my TNT tee (from Ottobre), so I’m trying to morph it together with the NL one. So far the pattern looks *completely insane* – basically a size 10 at the shoulders, 16 at the bust, and 20 at the hip. Believe it or not, the altered pattern looks suspiciously like my Ottobre tee pattern general size-wise, so I’m thinking that as odd as the pattern looks, it will probably match my equally odd body. No wonder I could never get top patterns to fit before I learned how to alter patterns. I need to start weight-lifting again, so I can have shoulders again someday!

The skirt is a basic flared 6-gore, so that should be pretty straightforward, just a bit of adjusting the waist for my tilted waist after sewing the main seams. The pants are interesting, though; my new RD Sewing Guide has a great section about pant fitting and adjusting crotch length and depth. The depth is OK, as is the front crotch length, but the back crotch length is 4″ too short (! – hello big butt). After consulting all my fitting books, the RD/Fast Fit recommendations seem like the best place to start: lengthen the crotch hook up to 3/4″, and then do multiple wedge alterations (cut on a line perpendicular to the grainline from the CB seam above the hook to the side seamline, and pull apart to create a longer CB seam) for the rest of the amount. I think I’ll need to also angle the CB seam more in future projects b/c of my swayback, but I may be able to get away with it OK with these elastic waist pants. I have a feeling that the quest for a well-fitting CB pants seam may be my next tilting-at-windmills fitting project.


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